Nobody wants to share their home with mice. These tiny rodents might look cute in cartoons, but in real life, they bring serious problems. Mice can spread diseases, chew through your wiring, contaminate your food, and damage your belongings. Even worse, they multiply incredibly fast. A single female mouse can have up to 10 litters per year, which means a small problem can quickly turn into a major infestation.
The good news? Learning how to get rid of mice doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive. This guide covers some excellent methods for getting rid of mice, from simple prevention steps to when you should call in the professionals. The key is acting fast when you spot the first signs like droppings, chewed packages, or scratching sounds in your walls.
1. Seal Entry Points and Make Your Home Mouse Proof
Before anything else, you need to block mice from getting inside. This is the single most important step in getting rid of mice for good. Without sealing entry points, you’ll be fighting a never-ending battle as new mice keep finding their way in.
Here’s the tricky part: mice can squeeze through openings as small as a quarter inch. That’s about the width of a pencil! Check your entire home, inside and out, for any cracks, gaps, or holes. Pay special attention to these common entry points:
- Gaps around windows and doors
- Cracks in your foundation
- Openings where utility pipes enter your home
- Vents without proper screens
- Gaps around your roof and attic
- Spaces under doors
Use the right materials to seal these openings. Steel wool works great because mice can’t chew through it. You can also use caulk, metal flashing, or cement. Install weather stripping around doors and windows, and add door sweeps to create a seal at the bottom of exterior doors.
Whatever you do, don’t use plastic, rubber, or wood to seal holes. Mice have strong teeth and can easily gnaw through these materials. Also remember to check both low and high areas of your home. Mice are excellent climbers and can access your roof and attic through overhanging tree branches.
2. Use Snap Traps
Snap traps are one of the oldest and most effective ways to catch mice. These classic traps work well for light to moderate mouse problems and kill mice quickly when set up correctly.
You’ll find different types of snap traps available. Traditional wooden traps still work great, but you can also get enclosed versions that hide the mouse from view. Both types get the job done.
The best bait for mouse traps includes peanut butter, chocolate, bacon, oatmeal, dried fruit, or hazelnut spread. Peanut butter is especially popular because it sticks to the trigger and forces the mouse to work at it, increasing the chance the trap will snap. Replace your bait every two days to keep it fresh and appealing.
Placement matters a lot with snap traps. Set them perpendicular to walls with the trigger side facing the baseboard. Mice naturally run along walls, so this setup puts the bait right in their path. Don’t be shy about using multiple traps. Even if you think you only have one mouse, set at least a dozen traps. You probably have more mice than you realize.
Check your traps every day. If you catch a mouse, wear gloves to dispose of it, then reset the trap. Keep traps out for at least a week or two, even after you stop catching mice.
One important note: skip the glue traps. While they do catch mice, they cause unnecessary suffering. The mouse gets stuck and can take a long time to die. Snap traps are much more humane.
3. Try Live Catch and Release Traps
If you want to remove mice without killing them, live traps are your best option. These humane traps let you capture mice alive so you can release them somewhere far from your home.
Most live traps work the same way. The mouse smells the bait and crawls inside the trap to get it. When the mouse enters, it triggers a spring mechanism that closes a door behind it, trapping the mouse safely inside a container. The mouse stays alive and unharmed until you’re ready to release it.
Set live traps in the same places you’d put snap traps: along walls where mice travel, near entry points, and in areas where you’ve seen droppings. Use the same baits that work for snap traps, like peanut butter or nuts.
Check live traps every single day, preferably in the morning. Being trapped stresses mice out, and they’ll often urinate inside the trap. Always wear rubber gloves when handling a trap with a mouse inside to protect yourself from any diseases the mouse might carry.
When you catch a mouse, take it at least one to ten miles away from your home before releasing it. Some experts recommend going even further. The problem is that mice have a strong sense of smell and can find their way back to your home if you don’t release them far enough away. Also, avoid releasing mice near other people’s homes. Instead, find a wooded area or field.
Keep in mind that live traps require more work than other methods since you have to drive somewhere to release each mouse you catch.
4. Use Bait Stations with Rodenticides
Bait stations are enclosed containers that hold poison bait blocks. The station has a small opening that allows mice to enter and eat the poison, but keeps children and pets from accessing the dangerous bait inside.
Here’s how they work: mice find the station, crawl inside through the small opening, eat the poisoned bait, then leave the station. The poison doesn’t kill them right away. Instead, it takes about three to five days to work. During that time, the mouse goes back to its nest, where it eventually dies.
Bait stations come in two types. Refillable stations can be used over and over by adding new bait blocks when needed. Disposable stations are single-use and get thrown away once they’ve done their job. Both types are weatherproof, so you can place them indoors or outdoors.
For best results, place bait stations along walls and in areas where you’ve seen mouse activity. Space them no more than 12 to 15 feet apart. Make sure to label each station clearly with warning signs like “POISON” or “RODENT BAIT. DO NOT TOUCH.”
Now for the downsides. Bait stations have several problems you should know about. First, poisoned mice often die in hard-to-reach places like inside your walls. This creates terrible smells and can attract flies. Second, if a pet or wild animal eats a poisoned mouse, they can get sick or die from secondary poisoning. Third, bait stations are reactive, not preventive. They only work after mice have already entered your home.
Because of these issues, bait stations work best as a last resort or when other methods haven’t worked. If you have young children or pets at home, consider other options first. If you do use bait stations, professional exterminators can place them safely for about $450 to $1,000.
5. Remove Food Sources and Practice Good Sanitation
Keeping a clean home won’t get rid of existing mice, but poor sanitation will definitely attract new ones. Mice need food and water to survive, so removing these resources makes your home less appealing.
Store all your food properly. Put cereal, pasta, flour, sugar, and other dry goods in sealed containers made of glass, metal, or thick plastic. Mice can easily chew through cardboard boxes and thin plastic bags. This applies to pet food too. Keep dry pet food in sealed bins and put away any wet food in airtight containers.
Clean up food messes right away. Wipe down counters after cooking, sweep up crumbs from the floor, and don’t leave dirty dishes in the sink overnight. Even small amounts of food can feed a mouse for days. They only need about three grams of food daily, which is less than a teaspoon.
Secure your garbage properly. Use trash cans with tight-fitting lids, and take the garbage out regularly. If possible, elevate outdoor garbage cans at least 12 inches off the ground to make them harder for mice to access.
Don’t forget about pet food and water. Feed your pets at regular times and pick up their bowls when they’re done eating. Leaving food and water out overnight is like setting up a buffet for mice.
Finally, reduce clutter throughout your home. Mice love to hide in piles of boxes, papers, and other stored items. The more clutter you have, the more hiding spots you’re providing. Clean out closets, organize storage areas, and get rid of things you don’t need.
6. Maintain Your Outdoor Space
The area around your home matters just as much as the inside. Mice often live outdoors and only come inside when they need food or shelter. Making your yard less mouse-friendly helps keep them from getting close to your house in the first place.
Start with your lawn and plants. Keep grass cut short within 20 feet of your home. Tall grass gives mice places to hide and travel safely. Trim back any tree branches that hang within eight feet of your house. Mice are great climbers and will use branches as highways to reach your roof and attic. Also remove climbing plants like ivy or wisteria from your exterior walls.
Move potential nesting materials away from your house. Stack firewood at least 100 feet away from your home, and elevate it off the ground if possible. Do the same with compost bins. These warm, protected areas are perfect mouse habitats, but you don’t want them near your foundation.
Store outdoor items properly. Keep animal feed and grains in thick plastic or metal containers with secure lids. Even bird seed can attract mice, so add squirrel guards to your feeders and hang them well away from your house.
Keep your outdoor cooking areas clean. Wipe down your grill after each use and don’t leave food scraps lying around. The smells from outdoor cooking can attract mice from quite a distance.
Elevate what you can. Raise garbage cans, hay bales, and woodpiles at least 12 inches off the ground. This removes protected spaces where mice like to nest and makes them more visible to natural predators like hawks and owls.
7. Try Natural Repellents but Keep Your Expectations Realistic
Natural repellents are popular because they seem like an easy, chemical-free solution for how to get rid of mice. The idea is simple: certain smells overwhelm a mouse’s sensitive nose, making them want to leave the area. Unfortunately, research shows these methods rarely work well on their own.
The most popular natural repellent is peppermint oil. You can soak cotton balls in pure peppermint essential oil and place them near entry points, in corners, and in areas where you’ve seen mouse activity. Or mix two teaspoons of peppermint oil with one cup of water in a spray bottle and spray problem areas. Other essential oils like clove, cinnamon, eucalyptus, and tea tree oil work on the same principle.
Cayenne pepper and hot pepper solutions also get recommended. Sprinkle the powder in areas where mice travel, but keep it away from children and pets. Some people try ammonia because it supposedly smells like predator urine, but this method has limited success and the smell bothers humans just as much as mice.
If you don’t have a cat but want the deterrent effect, you can try spreading used cat litter in areas with mouse activity. Just be sure to keep it well away from children.
Here’s the reality check: these natural methods might provide short-term relief, but they’re not reliable long-term solutions. The biggest problem is that the scents fade quickly, often within days or weeks. You’ll need to reapply constantly to maintain any effect. Even then, mice are smart and adaptable. If they’ve found a good food source and warm shelter in your home, they’ll tolerate unpleasant smells rather than leave.
Research has shown that peppermint oil can lose its scent completely in cold temperatures, making it useless in garages or storage units during winter. Multiple studies have also found that while mice might avoid treated areas initially, they often just move to untreated parts of your home instead of leaving entirely.
Natural repellents work best as part of a bigger plan, not as your only strategy. Use them alongside proper exclusion, traps, and sanitation for better results. And if you already have an established mouse infestation, natural repellents won’t be enough to solve the problem.
8. Consider Getting a Cat
Cats are natural mouse predators, and their presence alone can help deter rodents from your home. Scientific research backs this up. Studies have found that mice are actually hardwired to feel fear when they smell pheromones from cat urine. Even if your cat never catches a single mouse, just having a cat in the house can make mice nervous and more likely to stay away.
Research also suggests that having both a cat and a dog creates an even stronger deterrent effect. The combination of two predators makes your home feel especially unsafe for mice.
That said, getting a pet is a huge commitment that goes way beyond pest control. Cats need food, veterinary care, toys, and attention. They live for 15 years or more, which means you’ll be caring for your cat long after your mouse problem is gone. There’s also the cost to consider. Between food, litter, vet bills, and other supplies, cats can be expensive.
Some people are allergic to cats, and cats shed fur that needs to be cleaned up regularly. Plus, not all cats are good mousers. Some house cats have zero interest in hunting and would probably run away from a mouse.
If you already have a cat or were planning to get one anyway, great! It might help with mice. But don’t adopt a cat just for mouse control. There are more reliable and less expensive methods for getting rid of mice.
9. Skip Ultrasonic Repellents
Walk down the pest control aisle at any hardware store and you’ll probably see ultrasonic pest repellents. These electronic devices plug into your wall outlets and claim to repel mice using high-frequency sound waves that humans can’t hear. They sound great in theory, but here’s the truth: they don’t work.
Ultrasonic devices are supposed to emit sounds between 20 and 100 kilohertz, which is above human hearing range but within what mice can hear. The manufacturers claim these sounds irritate mice, confuse them, and make them uncomfortable enough to leave your home. Some even claim the sounds cause seizures in rodents.
The problem is that there’s no solid scientific evidence to support these claims. Multiple independent studies have tested ultrasonic repellents and found they have little to no effect on mice. The Federal Trade Commission has even issued warnings to manufacturers about making false effectiveness claims without proof.
Here’s why these devices fail:
The sound gets blocked easily. Furniture, walls, and other objects prevent the ultrasonic waves from traveling through your home. This creates “dead spots” where mice can hide without hearing anything.
Mice get used to the sound. Even if the ultrasonic waves bother mice at first, research shows they quickly become habituated. Once mice realize the sound is harmless, they ignore it.
The sound doesn’t address the root problem. Even if ultrasonic waves temporarily scare mice away from one area, they’ll just move to another part of your house where they can’t hear the device.
The devices have a very limited range, usually only 20 to 30 feet. To cover your whole home, you’d need to buy multiple units, which gets expensive fast.
There’s one more issue to consider. While ultrasonic sounds don’t bother humans, cats, or dogs, they can affect pet rodents like hamsters, guinea pigs, and rabbits. If you have these pets, ultrasonic devices could cause them stress and discomfort.
Save your money and invest in methods that actually work, like traps and proper exclusion. Ultrasonic repellents might seem like an easy fix, but they’re basically useless against a real mouse problem.
10. Clean Up Safely After Mice
Once you’ve dealt with the mice themselves, you need to clean up the mess they left behind. This step is crucial because mouse droppings, urine, and nesting materials can spread serious diseases. The biggest concern is hantavirus, a potentially deadly illness that spreads when people breathe in dust contaminated with infected mouse droppings.
Never sweep or vacuum mouse droppings. This is the most important safety rule. Sweeping or vacuuming launches tiny particles into the air that you can then breathe in. If those particles contain hantavirus or other pathogens, you could get very sick.
Instead, follow this safe cleanup process:
First, ventilate the area. Open all doors and windows and let fresh air circulate for at least 30 minutes before you start cleaning. Leave the area during this time if possible.
Put on protective gear. Wear rubber or plastic gloves and an N95 mask or better. The mask is important because it filters out the tiny particles that could make you sick.
Spray everything down. Use a household disinfectant or a bleach solution made from one part bleach mixed with nine to ten parts water. Spray the droppings, urine stains, and nesting materials until they’re thoroughly soaked. Let everything sit for at least five minutes. This wets down the contaminated material so it won’t become airborne.
Wipe up with paper towels. While wearing your gloves, use paper towels to pick up the droppings and soaked materials. Don’t use sponges or reusable cloths.
Double bag everything. Place the used paper towels and mouse waste into a plastic bag, seal it, then put that bag inside another plastic bag and seal that one too. Throw the double-bagged waste in your outdoor garbage can.
Disinfect all surfaces. Mop floors and wipe down all hard surfaces including countertops, cabinets, drawers, and shelves with disinfectant. If mice got into your clothes or bedding, wash everything in hot water with detergent.
Clean your gloves before removing them. Spray the outside of your gloves with disinfectant or wash them with soap and water while you’re still wearing them. This prevents contamination when you take them off.
Wash your hands thoroughly. After removing your gloves, wash your hands with soap and warm water for at least 20 seconds.
If you find evidence of mice in your heating and cooling vents, don’t try to clean it yourself. Call a professional exterminator who has the proper equipment to safely decontaminate HVAC systems. The same goes for heavily contaminated areas with mouse droppings and nests throughout an entire room.
Taking these precautions seriously protects your health. Hantavirus is rare, but it’s very serious when it does occur. The death rate ranges from 30 to 50 percent for some strains. Safe cleanup is just as important as removing the mice in the first place..
