How To Get Rid Of Crane Flies: 15 Simple Methods

If you’ve ever seen what looks like a giant mosquito buzzing around your yard or home, you’ve probably met a crane fly. While these long-legged insects might seem scary, adult crane flies are actually harmless. They don’t bite people or spread diseases. The real problem comes from their babies, called larvae or leatherjackets, which live underground and munch on grass roots all winter long.

Learning how to get rid of crane flies starts with understanding that you’re really fighting a two-part battle: stopping the adults from laying eggs and killing the larvae that are already damaging your lawn. The good news is that getting rid of crane flies doesn’t have to involve harsh chemicals or expensive treatments. Many of the best solutions use natural methods that are safe for your family and pets.

In this guide, you’ll learn some different ways to tackle your crane fly problem. Some methods work fast for quick relief, while others focus on long-term prevention. The most successful approach combines several of these techniques to attack the problem from multiple angles.

1. Apply Beneficial Nematodes to Target Larvae

Beneficial nematodes are tiny worms that live in soil naturally. You can’t see them without a microscope, but they’re excellent at hunting down and killing crane fly larvae. These helpful creatures work like nature’s pest control team.

The best types for crane flies are called Steinernema carpocapsae and Steinernema feltiae. When these nematodes find crane fly larvae in the soil, they enter the pest’s body and release bacteria that kill it within a few days. It sounds gross, but it’s completely natural and safe.

You can buy nematodes online or at garden centers. They usually come on a sponge or in powder form. To use them, mix the nematodes with water according to the package directions. One package typically treats about 2,000 square feet of lawn.

Apply nematodes when the soil is moist, preferably on a cloudy day. The best time is between late September and mid-October when crane fly larvae are still small and easier to kill. After applying, keep the soil damp for at least three days so the nematodes can move around and find their targets.

Studies show that nematodes can reduce crane fly populations by up to 65%. They won’t harm people, pets, beneficial insects, or earthworms. The only downside is that they take a few weeks to show results, so you need to be patient.

2. Improve Lawn Drainage and Reduce Moisture

Crane fly larvae love wet, soggy soil. If your lawn stays damp all the time, you’re basically running a crane fly hotel. Improving drainage is one of the best long-term solutions for getting rid of crane flies.

Start by looking for areas where water sits after rain or watering. These spots need better drainage. You can improve drainage by aerating your lawn with a core aerator once a year. This tool pulls out small plugs of soil, allowing water to soak in better instead of sitting on top.

For seriously wet areas, consider installing a French drain. This is basically a gravel-filled trench that carries water away from problem spots. You can also regrade areas to create a gentle slope that moves water away from your house and lawn.

Change how you water your grass too. Instead of watering a little bit every day, water deeply two or three times per week. This encourages grass roots to grow deeper and makes the soil surface drier, which crane fly larvae don’t like.

Here’s a helpful trick: turn off your sprinklers right after Labor Day. This creates drought stress just when adult crane flies are trying to lay eggs in early fall. The drier conditions make it much harder for eggs to survive and hatch.

3. Maintain Proper Mowing Height and Lawn Care

Healthy, thick grass is your best defense against crane flies. When your lawn is dense and vigorous, it can handle some larval damage without looking terrible. Plus, healthy grass creates conditions that make it harder for crane flies to lay eggs successfully.

Keep your grass between 2 and 3 inches tall. This height helps the grass develop a strong root system while shading the soil surface. Some experts recommend going even taller to 3 or 4 inches for maximum thickness.

Mow your lawn once a week during the growing season. When you see adult crane flies starting to appear in late summer, increase your mowing frequency. This destroys any eggs that females lay on grass blades before they can hatch.

Leave grass clippings on the lawn after mowing. They break down quickly and provide natural fertilizer, which helps keep your grass thick and healthy. Only bag clippings if they’re so thick they might smother the grass underneath.

Fertilize your lawn regularly according to your grass type and local recommendations. Well-fed grass grows thicker and recovers faster from any damage that larvae might cause. Strong grass also competes better with weeds that often take over thin spots where larvae have been feeding.

4. Use Essential Oil Repellent Sprays

Essential oils smell great to people but terrible to crane flies. Making your own natural repellent spray is easy and much safer than chemical pesticides. The best oils for repelling crane flies are peppermint, lavender, eucalyptus, lemongrass, and citronella.

To make a basic spray, add 10 to 15 drops of essential oil to 8 ounces of water in a spray bottle. You can use just one oil or mix several together for a stronger effect. Shake the bottle well before each use since oil and water don’t naturally mix.

Spray this mixture on your lawn, around windows and doors, and anywhere you’ve seen crane flies hanging out. Focus on damp areas where adults like to rest during the day. The strong scents confuse crane flies and make them want to go somewhere else to lay their eggs.

Reapply the spray weekly or after it rains. Essential oils break down quickly in sunlight and wash away with water, so regular reapplication is important for continued protection.

Be careful if you have pets. Some essential oils can be harmful to cats and dogs. Research each oil before using it, and avoid spraying areas where pets spend a lot of time. When in doubt, test a small area first or stick to gentler oils like lavender.

5. Create DIY Garlic Deterrent Spray

Garlic isn’t just for cooking. It also makes an excellent natural crane fly repellent that’s been used by gardeners for generations. The strong smell that makes garlic so flavorful also makes crane flies want to stay far away.

To make garlic spray, chop up several garlic cloves and boil them in water for 10 to 15 minutes. Let the mixture cool, then strain out the garlic pieces. Mix this garlic water with an equal amount of plain water to make it less concentrated.

Pour the mixture into a spray bottle and apply it to affected areas of your lawn. You can also scatter fresh chopped garlic directly on the grass, especially in spots where you’ve seen larvae damage.

Apply garlic spray early in the morning or late in the evening to avoid scorching grass leaves. The hot sun combined with garlic oil can sometimes burn tender grass, especially during summer heat.

Reapply garlic treatments weekly during crane fly season. The smell fades over time, and rain will wash it away. Some people find the garlic smell strong at first, but it usually fades within a day or two.

This method works because adult crane flies use their sense of smell to find good places to lay eggs. When they encounter the strong garlic scent, they decide to look elsewhere for a nursery.

6. Install Physical Barriers and Screens

Sometimes the simplest solutions work best. Physical barriers stop crane flies from getting where you don’t want them in the first place. This method works especially well for keeping adults out of your house.

Install fine mesh screens on all windows and doors. The mesh should be no larger than 0.3 millimeters to keep out even small insects. Check existing screens for holes or loose edges that crane flies could squeeze through. Even tiny gaps can let in these determined insects.

Cover outdoor vents, dryer exhausts, and other openings with mesh as well. Crane flies often find their way into homes through these forgotten entry points. Make sure the mesh doesn’t block proper airflow, especially for important vents.

For small lawn areas, you can cover the grass with lightweight horticultural fleece during egg-laying season in early fall. This prevents females from reaching the soil to lay eggs. Remove the covering before summer heat arrives, or it could stress the grass.

Walk around your house and seal any cracks or gaps around windows, doors, and foundations with caulk. These tiny openings might not seem important, but crane flies are surprisingly good at finding and using them.

Check and maintain your barriers regularly. Screens can develop holes over time, and caulk can crack or shrink. A few minutes of maintenance each season can save you from dealing with indoor crane fly invasions.

7. Deploy Sticky Traps for Adult Monitoring

Sticky traps are like flypaper designed specifically for catching crane flies. They work by attracting insects to a sticky surface where they get stuck and can’t escape. While traps won’t solve a major infestation by themselves, they’re excellent for monitoring crane fly activity and catching adults before they can lay eggs.

Window strips work particularly well because crane flies are strongly attracted to light. Place clear sticky traps on windows where you’ve seen crane flies gathering. The insects fly toward the light and get caught on the adhesive.

Yellow sticky cards also attract many flying insects, including crane flies. Place these near doorways, in corners where crane flies rest, or anywhere you’ve noticed adult activity. Some traps can catch over 2,000 flies before they need replacing.

Position traps in sunny spots when possible. Natural sunlight attracts flies better than artificial light, making your traps more effective during daytime hours.

Replace traps every 8 weeks or when they become full of insects. Old traps lose their stickiness and become less effective over time. Keep track of how many crane flies you’re catching to monitor whether your other control methods are working.

Sticky traps are completely safe around children and pets since they don’t use any chemicals or poisons. They’re also a good way to figure out where crane flies are most active around your property.

8. Encourage Natural Predators

Nature has its own pest control system, and many animals love to eat crane flies and their larvae. Encouraging these natural predators is an eco-friendly way to keep crane fly populations under control without using any chemicals.

Birds are some of the best crane fly hunters. Robins can eat up to 50 crane fly larvae per day when they’re actively feeding. Sparrows also love both adult crane flies and larvae. Attract birds to your yard by installing feeders, providing water sources, and planting native plants that produce seeds or berries.

Ground beetles are another excellent predator. These beneficial insects hunt crane fly larvae in the soil at night. Create habitat for ground beetles by maintaining areas of organic mulch, leaf litter, and ground cover plants where they can hide during the day.

Spiders catch adult crane flies in their webs. While you probably don’t want to encourage spiders inside your house, outdoor spiders are valuable allies in controlling flying pests.

Be aware that some predators might cause their own problems. Skunks, raccoons, and moles also eat crane fly larvae, but they dig up lawns to find them. If you notice animals tearing up your grass, it might actually be a sign that you have a larvae problem underneath.

The key is to create a balanced ecosystem where beneficial predators can thrive. Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides that kill both pests and their natural enemies.

9. Apply Commercial Insecticides When Necessary

Sometimes natural methods aren’t enough, especially for severe infestations. Commercial insecticides can provide quick, effective control when used properly and safely. However, this should be your last resort after trying gentler methods first.

The most effective products contain active ingredients like imidacloprid, chlorantraniliprile, bifenthrin, or pyrethroid. These chemicals target the nervous system of insects and can kill both larvae and adults on contact.

Timing is crucial for success. Apply insecticides in early to mid-April when larvae are most active and close to the soil surface. Treating during this window gives you the best chance of reaching the pests before they cause major damage.

Choose between granular and liquid formulations based on your needs. Granules are easier to apply evenly over large areas, while liquids can be more precise for spot treatments. Always follow label directions exactly for mixing, application rates, and safety precautions.

Wear protective equipment including gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection when applying any pesticide. Keep children and pets away from treated areas until the product has dried completely.

Consider hiring a licensed pest control professional for severe infestations. They have access to more effective products and know how to apply them safely and legally. Many also provide guarantees on their work.

Avoid applying insecticides when bees and other beneficial insects are active. Early morning or evening applications reduce the risk of harming pollinators that visit your lawn during the day.

10. Conduct Regular Soil Testing and Monitoring

You can’t fight what you can’t see. Since crane fly larvae live underground, you need to do some detective work to know if you have a problem and whether your treatments are working.

The easiest way to check for larvae is to dig up a square foot of sod in areas where you suspect damage. Look for brownish, worm-like creatures about an inch long with tough, leathery skin. They look like small caterpillars but don’t have legs or a distinct head.

Count how many larvae you find in each square foot sample. If you discover 25 or more larvae per square foot, you have a serious infestation that needs immediate treatment. Fewer than 25 larvae might not require aggressive action, especially if your grass is healthy.

Try the soap test for a less destructive way to find larvae. Mix a few tablespoons of dish soap in a gallon of water and pour it over suspected problem areas. The soapy water irritates larvae and forces them to come to the surface where you can see and count them.

Test several areas of your lawn, not just obvious damage spots. Larvae often spread beyond the areas where damage is visible, and knowing the full extent of the problem helps you plan treatments more effectively.

Monitor your lawn regularly throughout the year, but pay special attention in November and early spring when larvae are most active. Keep records of what you find so you can track whether populations are increasing or decreasing over time.

11. Implement Fall Prevention Strategies

Prevention is always easier than cure, and fall is the perfect time to prevent next year’s crane fly problems. Since adults emerge and lay eggs in late summer and early fall, this is your chance to disrupt their life cycle before it gets started.

Start reducing watering in late August and continue through September. This creates drought stress during the critical egg-laying period. Dry soil makes it much harder for eggs to survive and hatch into larvae. Don’t worry about your grass; most established lawns can handle a few weeks of reduced watering.

Keep a close eye out for adult crane flies starting in late summer. When you see them appearing, increase your mowing frequency to once or twice per week. This destroys eggs that females lay on grass blades before they have a chance to hatch.

Remove organic debris like fallen leaves, grass clippings, and dead plant material from your lawn. Adult crane flies are attracted to these areas for egg-laying because the decomposing matter provides food for newly hatched larvae.

If you’re planning to use beneficial nematodes, early fall is the perfect time to apply them. The larvae are still small and vulnerable, and the nematodes have time to establish themselves in the soil before winter arrives.

Consider core aerating your lawn in early fall. This improves drainage and disrupts any existing larvae in the soil. Follow up with overseeding if your grass is thin in any areas.

12. Remove Thatch and Aerate Annually

Thatch is a layer of dead grass, roots, and debris that builds up between the soil and living grass. While a thin layer is normal and beneficial, thick thatch creates the perfect environment for crane fly larvae. It holds moisture, provides food, and gives larvae a cozy place to hide.

Most lawns benefit from dethatching every few years, but lawns with crane fly problems should be dethatched annually. You can rent a power dethatcher from most home improvement stores, or hire a lawn care service to do the job.

The best time to dethatch is late summer or early fall, right before adult crane flies start laying eggs. This removes the favorable habitat just when females are looking for good spots to deposit their eggs.

Core aeration should be done at the same time as dethatching or shortly afterward. A core aerator pulls small plugs of soil out of the ground, reducing compaction and improving drainage. Better drainage makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females and harder for larvae to survive.

After dethatching and aerating, overseed any thin or bare spots immediately. Dense grass is your best long-term defense against crane flies and many other lawn pests. Choose grass varieties that grow well in your climate and soil conditions.

Don’t bag up the thatch and soil plugs right away. Let them break down naturally on the lawn surface. As they decompose, they provide natural fertilizer that helps your grass grow thicker and stronger.

13. Use Light Management for Indoor Control

Adult crane flies are incredibly attracted to light, especially artificial light at night. If you’ve ever had crane flies bumping around your porch light or windows after dark, you’ve seen this behavior firsthand. You can use this attraction to your advantage.

Switch outdoor lights to yellow “bug lights” during crane fly season. These bulbs produce light that’s less attractive to insects while still providing illumination for safety and security. You can find bug lights at any hardware store.

Turn off unnecessary outdoor lighting during late summer and early fall when adult crane flies are most active. This includes decorative lighting, landscape lights, and any lights near windows or doors that aren’t needed for safety.

Inside your house, close curtains and blinds at night to reduce the amount of light escaping through windows. Crane flies can see light from quite a distance and will gather around bright windows trying to get inside.

If you must have outdoor lighting, position it away from doorways and windows. Put lights on poles or posts that draw insects away from your house rather than toward it. This creates a “bug zone” away from areas where people spend time.

Consider using UV light traps designed specifically for flying insects. Place these away from living areas to draw crane flies and other pests away from where you don’t want them. Empty and clean the traps regularly for best results.

14. Apply Organic Soil Amendments

Healthy soil grows healthy grass, and healthy grass naturally resists pest problems better than weak, struggling turf. Organic soil amendments improve the soil ecosystem and can help suppress crane fly populations naturally.

Compost tea is one of the best organic treatments you can apply. Make it by steeping finished compost in water for several days, then straining out the solids. The resulting liquid is full of beneficial microorganisms that compete with crane fly larvae for resources and space.

Apply compost tea to your lawn weekly during active growing seasons. You can use a garden sprayer or simply pour it from a watering can. The beneficial bacteria and fungi in the tea help create soil conditions that are less favorable for crane fly development.

Maintain soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 for optimal grass health. You can test pH with an inexpensive kit from any garden center. If your soil is too acidic or alkaline, your grass will struggle no matter what else you do.

Add organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure to your soil annually. This improves soil structure, increases water-holding capacity, and feeds beneficial soil organisms. Better soil structure also improves drainage, which helps control crane fly larvae.

Some beneficial bacteria and fungi naturally produce compounds that suppress insect pests. While these effects aren’t dramatic, they’re part of a healthy soil ecosystem that supports strong, resilient grass.

15. Know When to Call Professional Pest Control

How to get rid of crane flies sometimes requires professional help, especially when infestations are severe or keep coming back despite your best efforts. Knowing when to call in the experts can save you time, money, and frustration.

Call a professional if you consistently find more than 25 larvae per square foot after trying multiple control methods. This level of infestation is difficult to control with over-the-counter products and usually requires commercial-grade treatments.

Seek professional help if crane fly damage keeps recurring year after year. Persistent problems often indicate underlying issues like drainage problems, soil compaction, or other factors that need expert diagnosis and treatment.

Consider professional treatment for large properties where DIY methods would be impractical or too expensive. Pest control companies have equipment and products that can treat large areas more efficiently than homeowner methods.

Professional pest control technicians have access to more effective products and know exactly when and how to apply them for maximum effectiveness. They also understand local regulations about pesticide use and can ensure treatments are done legally and safely.

Many professional pest control companies provide guarantees on their work. If the treatment doesn’t work as promised, they’ll come back and retreat at no additional cost. This can provide peace of mind and potentially save money compared to repeated DIY attempts.

Look for companies that use integrated pest management approaches combining multiple control methods rather than relying only on chemical treatments. The best professionals will also provide advice on prevention and long-term lawn care strategies.