Nothing ruins a beautiful garden faster than waking up to find your precious seedlings lying dead on the ground, cleanly cut at the stem. If this nightmare sounds familiar, you’re dealing with cutworms. These sneaky little caterpillars are the larvae of night-flying moths, and they can destroy an entire garden in just a few nights.
Cutworms get their name because they literally cut down young plants by chewing through stems right at soil level. They hide during the day and come out at night to feast on your plants. The good news? There are many effective ways to stop these garden destroyers in their tracks.
Getting rid of cutworms doesn’t have to mean reaching for harsh chemicals right away. This guide covers the best methods, from simple physical barriers to organic treatments that keep your garden safe. Whether you’re dealing with a small problem or a major invasion, these techniques will help you win the war against cutworms.
1. Physical Barriers and Collars
The simplest way to protect your plants is to create a physical barrier that cutworms can’t cross. Think of it as building a tiny fortress around each seedling.
Cardboard and Toilet Paper Roll Collars
Empty toilet paper rolls make perfect plant protectors. Cut each roll lengthwise so you can open it up and wrap it around your seedling. Push about an inch of the collar into the soil and leave 2-3 inches sticking up above ground. The collar prevents cutworms from wrapping their bodies around the stem, which they need to do to cut it down.
These cardboard collars will break down naturally over time, which is perfect because your plants will outgrow their need for protection as they get bigger and stronger. For larger seedlings, try paper towel rolls or even cut-up cereal boxes.
Aluminum Foil and Plastic Collars
For a more durable option, create collars from aluminum foil or plastic containers. Cut the bottom out of small yogurt cups or plastic bottles and push them into the soil around your plants. These work especially well for valuable transplants like tomatoes and peppers that need protection for several weeks.
The key with any collar is making sure it goes deep enough into the soil (at least an inch) and extends high enough above ground (2-3 inches) to block the cutworms completely.
Simple Stem Protection Tricks
Here’s a clever trick many gardeners swear by: stick three toothpicks or small nails into the soil right next to each plant stem, creating a triangle pattern. Cutworms need to wrap completely around a stem to cut it, and these little obstacles make that impossible.
You can also cut drinking straws into 2-inch pieces and slip them over young stems like tiny shields. It’s amazing how such simple solutions can save your entire garden.
2. Cultivation and Soil Management
One of the best ways to prevent cutworm problems is to make your garden an unwelcome place for them to live and breed.
Fall Tillage
Tilling your garden in late fall is like evicting cutworms from their winter hotel. Many species overwinter as pupae or young larvae hiding in the soil or under plant debris. When you till in fall, you expose these hiding pests to cold weather, predators, and birds.
This method works because it destroys their cozy winter shelters and brings them to the surface where they can’t survive. Fall tillage is especially effective if you had cutworm problems the previous year.
Spring Soil Preparation
Till your garden again in early spring, but here’s the important part: wait at least 2-3 weeks before planting anything. This waiting period starves any cutworms that survived winter because they have nothing to eat when they emerge.
Spring tilling also gives birds a chance to feast on any exposed larvae. Robins, blackbirds, and other insect-eating birds will help clean up your garden if you give them the opportunity.
Clean Garden Maintenance
Cutworm moths love to lay their eggs on plant debris, weeds, and dead vegetation. Remove all this material from your garden area and keep it clean year-round. Pay special attention to weedy areas around your garden perimeter since these can serve as cutworm nurseries.
Create a buffer zone of clean, bare soil around your garden beds. Cutworms don’t like crossing open areas, so this creates a natural barrier that discourages them from wandering into your planting area.
3. Hand-Picking and Manual Removal
Sometimes the most effective method is also the simplest: just pick them off and get rid of them.
Night Hunting with Flashlight
Cutworms are most active at dusk and during the night, so that’s the best time to catch them. Grab a flashlight and head out to your garden about an hour after sunset. Look carefully around the base of damaged plants and under nearby soil clumps.
When you find cutworms, they’ll probably curl up into a tight C-shape. That’s their defensive position, and it makes them easy to spot and grab. This method works best on calm, cloudy evenings when cutworms are most likely to be out and active.
Soap Water Drowning Method
Once you’ve collected cutworms, drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Mix about a tablespoon of liquid dish soap into a gallon of water. The soap water kills them quickly and humanely, and it’s completely safe for your garden.
This drowning method is much more effective than just throwing cutworms away, since they might crawl back to your plants if they survive being tossed aside.
Soil Excavation Around Damaged Plants
If you find a plant that’s been cut down, the culprit is probably hiding nearby. Dig gently around the damaged plant, checking the top 2-3 inches of soil within about a foot of the damage. Cutworms like to hide close to their food source during the day.
Look for that characteristic C-shaped curl when you disturb the soil. Once you find them, remove them immediately and add them to your soapy water bucket.
4. Beneficial Nematodes (Biological Control)
Beneficial nematodes are like having an invisible army working for you underground. These microscopic roundworms are natural cutworm predators that seek out and destroy soil-dwelling pests.
How Nematodes Work
Nematodes enter cutworm bodies through natural openings and release bacteria that kill the pest within 24-48 hours. The best part is that these tiny helpers only target harmful insects and won’t hurt plants, pets, or beneficial creatures like earthworms.
For cutworm control, look for products containing Steinernema carpocapsae or Heterorhabditis bacteriophora. These species are specifically effective against caterpillars and other soil-dwelling larvae.
Application Guidelines
Apply nematodes in the early evening to protect them from harmful UV rays. The soil should be moist but not waterlogged, with temperatures between 55-85°F for best results. You’ll need about 1 billion nematodes per acre, which sounds like a lot but comes in easy-to-apply packages.
After application, keep the soil moist for 10-14 days to help the nematodes establish and reproduce. If your cutworm problem persists, reapply every 7-10 days until you see improvement.
Purchasing and Storage Tips
Buy nematodes from reputable suppliers and use them quickly after arrival. These are living creatures with a short shelf life, so don’t order them until you’re ready to apply them. Store unopened packages in the refrigerator (never the freezer) for up to two weeks if needed.
5. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) Spray
Bt is a naturally occurring soil bacteria that’s toxic to caterpillars but completely safe for humans, pets, and beneficial insects. It’s one of the most popular organic pest control methods and works great for getting rid of cutworms.
How Bt Works
When cutworms eat plant material treated with Bt, the bacteria create toxins in their stomach that stop them from feeding. The pests die within 2-3 days, but they stop eating immediately after consuming the bacteria.
Bt only affects caterpillars and similar larvae, so it won’t harm bees, ladybugs, or other helpful garden insects. This makes it perfect for organic gardens where protecting beneficial creatures is important.
Application Tips
Spray Bt in the early morning or evening when UV light won’t break down the bacteria. Apply it to plant stems and the surrounding soil where cutworms might be hiding. The spray needs to be fresh since Bt breaks down quickly in sunlight and rain.
Reapply every 5-7 days or after any rain. For best results, target young cutworms under half an inch long, since smaller larvae are more susceptible to the treatment.
Product Options
Bt comes in ready-to-use spray bottles for small gardens or concentrated forms for mixing larger batches. Look for products labeled for caterpillar control and make sure they contain Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki (Btk), which is the strain that targets cutworms.
Some formulations include spreader-stickers that help the spray stick to plants better, especially useful if rain is expected.
6. Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Application
Diatomaceous earth is a fine powder made from fossilized algae called diatoms. Under a microscope, it looks like tiny pieces of broken glass that can cut through insect bodies.
How DE Controls Cutworms
When cutworms crawl through diatomaceous earth, the sharp particles cut tiny holes in their skin, causing them to dehydrate and die. It’s a purely physical process, so insects can’t develop resistance to it like they might with chemical pesticides.
Only use food-grade diatomaceous earth in your garden. Industrial grades contain higher levels of silica and can be harmful to mammals.
Proper Application Method
Sprinkle DE lightly around the base of vulnerable plants, creating a barrier about 2-3 inches wide around each stem. Don’t pile it on thick; a light dusting is more effective than heavy application.
The biggest limitation of DE is that it only works when dry. Rain, dew, or watering will reduce its effectiveness, so you’ll need to reapply after any moisture. Apply it during dry weather when no rain is expected for at least a few days.
Safety Considerations
While DE is safe for humans and pets, it can harm beneficial insects like bees if they come into contact with it. Never apply DE to flowers or areas where pollinators are active. Stick to applying it only around plant stems at soil level.
Wear a dust mask when applying DE to avoid breathing in the fine particles, which can irritate your nose and throat.
7. Row Covers and Exclusion
Sometimes the best defense is simply keeping the enemy out. Row covers and protective barriers prevent cutworm moths from laying eggs near your plants in the first place.
Floating Row Covers
Lightweight fabric row covers create a physical barrier that stops moths from reaching your plants to lay eggs. These covers allow light, air, and water through while keeping pests out.
Install row covers immediately after planting and secure the edges tightly to the soil. Even small gaps can let determined moths through, so take time to seal the perimeter completely.
Timing for Cover Removal
Remove row covers when plants begin flowering, since many crops need pollinators to produce fruit. You can also remove them once plants outgrow their susceptible seedling stage, usually after 4-6 weeks.
For crops that don’t need pollination (like lettuce and greens), you can leave covers on much longer for continued protection.
Hardware Cloth and Rigid Covers
For extra protection around valuable plants, create cages from hardware cloth or screen material. These allow excellent air circulation while providing complete protection from flying pests.
Rigid covers work especially well for tomato and pepper transplants that need several weeks of protection while they establish strong root systems.
8. Companion Planting and Natural Deterrents
Certain plants may help repel cutworms or attract their natural enemies. While these methods aren’t as reliable as physical barriers, they can be helpful additions to your pest control strategy.
Traditional Plant Deterrents
Old-time gardeners have long planted tansy near cabbage family crops to discourage cutworms. While scientific evidence is limited, many gardeners still swear by this traditional method.
Oak leaf mulch is another folk remedy that some gardeners find helpful. Spread oak leaves around vulnerable plants, but avoid creating thick mulch layers that might provide hiding places for pests.
Attracting Beneficial Insects
Plant flowers that attract parasitic wasps and flies, which are natural cutworm predators. Good choices include parsley, Queen Anne’s lace, sweet alyssum, and plants in the carrot family like dill and fennel.
These beneficial insects help control cutworms by laying their eggs inside the pest larvae. The developing wasp or fly larvae then consume the cutworms from the inside, providing natural pest control.
Creating Habitat Diversity
A diverse garden with many different plants supports a complex ecosystem that helps keep pest populations in check. Avoid large monoculture plantings that can attract and support large pest populations.
Include perennial flowers and herbs around your vegetable garden to provide year-round habitat for beneficial creatures.
9. Attracting Natural Predators
Nature provides many creatures that love to eat cutworms. Encouraging these natural predators is a sustainable way to keep cutworm populations under control.
Ground Beetles and Spiders
Ground beetles are voracious cutworm predators that hunt at night when cutworms are active. Provide habitat for these beneficial insects by maintaining areas of undisturbed soil and organic matter around your garden.
Avoid using broad-spectrum pesticides that kill beneficial predators along with pests. Even organic treatments can harm helpful insects if used incorrectly.
Encouraging Birds
Many bird species eat cutworms and other garden pests. Blackbirds, robins, and meadowlarks are especially effective cutworm controllers.
Install bird houses, provide fresh water, and plant bird-friendly shrubs near your garden. Time your spring tilling when birds are active so they can help clean up any exposed larvae.
Supporting Beneficial Insects
Parasitic wasps and tachinid flies attack cutworms in their larval stage. Support these tiny helpers by avoiding pesticide use and providing nectar sources throughout the growing season.
Plant umbrella-shaped flowers like those in the carrot family, since many beneficial insects prefer this flower type for feeding.
10. Cultural Control Methods
How you manage your garden can make a big difference in preventing cutworm problems before they start.
Delayed Planting Strategy
In areas with severe cutworm pressure, consider delaying planting by 2-3 weeks after the normal time. This strategy works because it breaks the cycle between emerging cutworms and available food.
When cutworms emerge from winter hiding spots and find no food, they either die or move elsewhere to find meals. By the time you plant, the initial wave of hungry cutworms has passed.
Garden Hygiene Practices
Keep your garden clean year-round, not just during the growing season. Remove crop residues immediately after harvest, since decaying plant material attracts egg-laying moths.
Maintain weed-free areas around your garden perimeter. Weedy fence lines and ditches can serve as cutworm breeding grounds, sending waves of pests into your clean garden area.
Water Management
Avoid overwatering, which can create conditions that favor cutworm development. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses instead of overhead sprinklers when possible.
Good drainage is important since soggy soil conditions can support larger cutworm populations. Improve drainage in problem areas by adding compost or creating raised beds.
11. Trap Crops and Monitoring
Getting rid of cutworms is easier when you know exactly where they are and how many you’re dealing with.
Using Trap Crops
Plant small sections of cutworm favorites like corn or beans a week or two before your main garden. These trap crops attract cutworms and concentrate them in specific areas where they’re easier to control.
Monitor trap crops closely for signs of cutworm damage, then treat these areas intensively while the main garden remains protected.
Soap Drench Detection
If you suspect cutworms but can’t find them, try this detection trick: mix one tablespoon of liquid dish soap in a gallon of water and pour it around suspected plants. Within 3-5 minutes, any hiding cutworms will come to the surface where you can see and remove them.
This method forces cutworms out of their hiding spots without harming plants or beneficial soil creatures.
Regular Garden Monitoring
Check your garden every morning for signs of cutworm damage. Look for cleanly cut seedlings, wilted plants with chewed stems, and small holes in the soil where cutworms might be hiding.
Keep records of problem areas and timing so you can be better prepared for future seasons. Cutworm problems often follow patterns that become predictable over time.
12. Organic Spray Treatments
Several organic spray treatments can help control cutworms while keeping your garden safe for beneficial insects and your family.
Insecticidal Soap Solutions
Mix one tablespoon each of liquid dish soap and vegetable oil in a quart of warm water to create an effective organic spray. This solution works by coating and suffocating soft-bodied insects and young larvae.
Spray the mixture generously on plant stems and surrounding soil in the evening when cutworms are most active. Reapply every few days as needed, especially after rain.
Neem Oil Applications
Neem oil disrupts cutworm feeding and development while also coating eggs to prevent hatching. It works slowly but provides good long-term control when applied regularly.
Apply neem oil in early morning or evening to avoid leaf burn and protect beneficial insects. The oil breaks down quickly in sunlight, so timing is important for effectiveness.
Spinosad-Based Products
Spinosad is derived from soil bacteria and works well against caterpillars and larvae. It’s approved for organic growing but can be toxic to bees if applied during the day.
Always apply spinosad products in the evening when bees are inactive. The product breaks down quickly, so it’s safe for pollinators by the next morning.
13. Chemical Control Options (Last Resort)
When organic methods aren’t providing enough control, chemical options can help save your garden. Use these only when other methods have failed and always follow label directions exactly.
Synthetic Pyrethroid Insecticides
Products containing bifenthrin, permethrin, deltamethrin, or lambda-cyhalothrin work quickly against cutworms and provide residual control. These synthetic insecticides mimic natural compounds found in chrysanthemum flowers.
Apply in the evening when cutworms are active and beneficial insects are less likely to contact treated areas. Focus application around plant bases and soil where cutworms hide during the day.
Granular Insecticide Applications
Granular formulations can be scattered around plants and watered in to provide longer-lasting control. Bifenthrin granules work well for widespread infestations where spray applications would be impractical.
Water the granules into the soil after application to activate the insecticide and move it to where cutworms are likely to encounter it.
Safety and Environmental Considerations
Always read and follow label instructions carefully. Wear protective equipment as recommended and never apply more than the label rate.
Consider the impact on beneficial insects and pollinators before using chemical controls. Limit applications to problem areas rather than treating the entire garden when possible.
Be aware that overuse of any pesticide can lead to resistance problems. Rotate between different chemical classes and always try organic methods first.
14. Timing and Prevention Strategies
The key to successful cutworm control is understanding when and how to act for maximum effectiveness.
Understanding Cutworm Life Cycles
Most cutworm species have one to three generations per year, with peak damage occurring in spring and early summer when larvae are small and hungry. Learn about the specific species common in your area to time control efforts effectively.
Monitor local extension service recommendations for your region, since cutworm emergence timing varies by location and weather conditions.
Seasonal Prevention Calendar
Create a yearly schedule for cutworm prevention:
- Fall: Clean up all garden debris, till soil, and remove weeds around garden perimeter.
- Winter: Plan next year’s garden layout and order beneficial nematodes and other supplies.
- Early Spring: Till soil again and wait 2-3 weeks before planting.
- Late Spring: Install physical barriers, apply beneficial nematodes, and monitor for damage.
- Summer: Continue monitoring and maintain controls as needed.
Integrated Pest Management Approach
The most effective long-term strategy for how to get rid of cutworms combines multiple control methods rather than relying on any single technique. Use physical barriers for immediate protection, biological controls for long-term management, and cultural practices to prevent problems.
Getting rid of cutworms successfully requires patience and persistence. Don’t expect overnight results, especially with biological controls that take time to establish. Keep detailed records of what works in your garden so you can refine your approach each season.
Monitor your garden regularly and be ready to adjust your strategy based on what you observe. What works perfectly one year might need modification the next, depending on weather conditions and pest pressure.
Remember that a few cutworms in the garden isn’t necessarily a crisis. Focus your efforts on protecting the most vulnerable plants and newly transplanted seedlings, since established plants can usually survive minor cutworm damage.
By combining several of these proven methods and staying vigilant throughout the growing season, you can keep cutworms from destroying your garden and enjoy healthy, productive plants all season long.
